First, what is acne?

Our skin has tiny holes all over it that are called pores. Pores are on the surface. Most pores leads to a follicle, which is a small tube that holds one strand of hair. The follicle also contains an oil gland. Oil released from the gland is called sebum. Sebum is a good thing! It keeps skin moisturized and helps sweep away old skin cells. But the oil glands can also become blocked by a mixture of dead skin cells, old, oxidized sebum and the bacteria that live on your skin. When the pore clogs, you see redness and feel swelling. That’s inflammation. Acne is the result.

Who gets acne?

Pretty much everyone experiences acne at some point or other. Adolescence and young adulthood are when it’s most common but plenty of adults get it, too. If your family has a history of acne, you might also be more likely to develop it. Hormonal changes can also bring it on.

Types of acne

Non-inflammatory acne

This form of acne generally does not cause swelling. It also tends to respond to skincare that is targeted to treat it.

• Blackheads and whiteheads: If you have blackheads, you can tell that the pore has remained open. Oxygen enters the pore and reaches the sebum and turns it black in color. If you see whiteheads, which are pimples that look white in color, you can tell that the pore is clogged. Air doesn’t enter the follicle so the same color-changing reaction does not happen. Blackheads and whiteheads are considered the most mild forms of acne.

Inflammatory acne

Inflammation in the follicle can cause its walls to burst, spreading the bacteria. Inflammatory acne is more severe than non-inflammatory. If you have it, you are more likely to need a doctor to prescribe medication to treat it.

• Papules: The pimples that result are bigger and feel harder. Papules make the skin feel and look raw and painful.

• Pustules: If they are filled with a yellowish pus and look more like blisters than whiteheads, they are called pustules. People who get papules often also have pustules.

• Nodules and cysts: If the infection progresses further, you could develop nodules or cysts deeper in the skin. These most severe forms of acne feel sore and very painful.

What causes pores to clog?

Acne is linked to hormonal changes. That’s why adolescence is when lots of people experience their worst breakouts. Pre-menstrual breakdowns can be traced to this cause, too. If your body reacts to this hormone by releasing more sebum from your follicles and there is bacteria on the surface of your skin, acne happens.

What makes acne worse?

There are a number of factors. You may notice breakouts get worse in high humidity or when you’re stressed. Some studies link diets that are high in sugar to acne, along with consuming whey protein and skim milk. And if you have a habit of wearing a tight-fitting hat like a baseball cap, you may have noticed breakouts where the band that runs along the inside of the cap touches your skin. Even being close to a stove where food is being fried could trigger acne.

No matter what seems to bring on your acne, one thing that never helps? Touching it with your hands. Don’t pick at or squeeze your blemishes. You risk spreading surface bacteria, scarring, and irritating your skin even more.

How to Treat Acne

1. First, wash your skin—gently!—with the right product. You want a cleanser that won’t dry your skin but will gently remove surface oil, impurities, and buildup. Don’t use overly hot water and massage, don’t scrub. But do wash your face in the morning and at night, as well as after you get sweaty from exercise or being outside in hot weather. Never go to sleep with makeup on your face.

Good Molecules Acne Foaming Cleanser creates a rich foam that is easy to massage on your skin without aggravating it. It gently exfoliates and leaves skin soft and comfortably clean. Over time, skin looks smoother, more radiant and more even-toned. The Acne Foaming Cleanser contains:

• 2% salicylic acid (beta hydroxy acid or BHA), an anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial medication that exfoliates away dead skin cells while unclogging pores

• witch hazel and aloe, which help soothe the skin, easing irritation and inflammation

If you have acne on your body as well as your face, the Clarify & Cleanse Bar is also a good choice. It foams to a creamy lather but it doesn’t contain soap. Soap can be hard to rinse away completely and in time, this residue can worsen conditions like acne. The Clarify & Cleanse Bar contains:

• 0.45% salicylic acid, which removes dead skin cells that can clog your pores

• kaolin clay, which helps absorb excess sebum

• cocoa powder, an antioxidant-rich ingredient that soothes inflammation and redness

• rosehip and grapeseed oils to nourish and moisturize skin and promote skin elasticity

2. Follow your cleansing with a toner. Toners are great because they remove any last traces of gunk and because they hydrate the surface of your skin, they help the products you’ll apply next to absorb better. A few times a week, apply an exfoliating toner that clears dead skin cells from your skin.

Glycolic Exfoliating Toner is a great choice because it both exfoliates and helps hydrate and soothe irritated skin. Use it three times a week before working your way up to once-daily application. Always wear SPF daily, but especially when using this product. And while using it, avoid retinol or other chemical or physical exfoliants. This toner contains:

• 3.5% glycolic acid penetrates deeper into skin to encourage exfoliation

• galactomyces ferment to replenish moisture and leave skin feeling supple and smooth

• hyaluronic acid and aloe to help hydrate and soothe skin

3. Choose acne treatments that do double duty: helping treat acne while also helping your skin feel more comfortable as it heals. Fight breakouts and soothe irritated skin with BHA Clarify Gel Cream. Apply this weightless gel after your toner. It contains:

• 0.4% salicylic acid to fight the appearance of breakouts

• green tea and centella asiatica extracts to calm irritation

4. When you’re dealing with acne, you may also find that your skin looks dull. The texture might feel uneven, too, and your pores can look larger. A product that contains alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic and lactic acids can help improve the look of your skin’s surface while a BHA like salicylic acid goes to work clearing clogged pores.

Overnight Exfoliating Treatment is a product to use 2-3 times a week when you are not using any other chemical or physical exfoliants. So don’t use it if you’re already using Glycolic Exfoliating Toner, for example. And be sure to use SPF consistently every day, especially when using Overnight Exfoliating Treatment.

When to Call a Dermatologist

Waiting for your acne to improve can take patience. Give it time, commit to your skincare regimen, but if you don’t see improvement after several months or if acne gets worse, you see scars as acne heals or if you find yourself feeling upset about your skin, schedule an appointment with a dermatologist. You may be prescribed an antibiotic that you apply to your skin or take as a pill. Or you might be given a prescription-strength skincare product. Depending on the kind of acne you have and/or its triggers, you may be prescribed certain medication or your doctor might suggest photodynamic therapy, chemical peels or dermabrasion (to help remove scarring). If you have cysts that won’t drain on their own, your doctor may remove or drain them, or inject them with cortisone, a steroid that treats inflammation, swelling and irritation.

To Wrap Up

Acne is so common that most people experience it at some point, especially during their teen years and young adulthood. But the type of acne, severity and what triggers pores to clog can vary from one person to the next. So can how long it takes for breakouts to clear up.

If you have acne, you have to be consistent about treating it. Wash your skin to remove dirt, excess oils and dead skin cells from the surface. Do this every morning, night and after you sweat. Exfoliation will help, so choose products that contain salicylic acid, which helps unclog pores. For exfoliating the surface of your skin, look for glycolic and lactic acids. But always be gentle: don’t scrub or pick at your skin. And always pay attention to the directions on your skincare because many products that treat acne can make your skin more susceptible to UV exposure or may not be suitable if you are already using a product with the same or similar ingredients.

Seek out skincare or over-the-counter medication that is made to treat acne and give it time to work. Some acne can be traced to hormonal changes or you inherited it from family genes, but you may be able to identify triggers to avoid, too. For example, you may notice that you break out after eating certain foods. Your stress levels can also trigger acne, so build a toolkit of what works for you in managing stress. Still, if you don’t see improvement or your acne gets worse, a visit to a dermatologist is the next step.